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AUSTRALIA
DIVER DOWN UNDER

By Shawn Blore


Photographs by Norbert WU

Sharks, Coral, Giant Cod, Manta Rays and a new scientific theory

By Shawn Blore

A coral reef is like a city, Charles Darwin once said. He meant that reefs were home to an incredible diversity of species who went about exchanging material - carbon, energy; old seashells - with the same manic intensity of urbanites trading goods and cash. As a popular naturalist, Darwin used simple explanations to demystify the natural world. But even he would have been surprised by how well his analogy worked in Calms, Australia.

On my first day in the waters of the Great Barrier Reef, I notice that the sea creatures bear an eerie resemblance to those poking around north Queensland's largest city. Scientists have recently begun to discover the myriad ways in which coastal cities like Calms have affected the reef But what if the reef were also changing Calms?

It's an insight that hits me in a minor "Eureka!" moment as I glide through the clear water of Harrier Reef, stopping to peer beneath a veranda-sized overhang of plate coral. The half-dozen coral groupers - big, meaty fish from the Serranidae family - waiting out the midday heat bear an uncanny resemblance to the lads with bush hats and sleeveless shirts ("rough as guts" in the local vernacular) that I'd found knocking back midday pints in a hotel bar in Cairns. Both species have the wary stare of creatures not quite far enough up the food chain. And though neither species is exactly verbal, both manage to convey that they'd prefer it if I'd just move along.

Coincidence, perhaps, but just after I fin away from the groupers I come across a school of goldback anthias soaring in the upwelling atop a coral ridge. They're all identical and exquisitely beautiflul: small purple fish with a gold stripe down the back and little gold flecks around the cheeks and eyes. When I kick over to make friends, the anthias flit nervously out of reach and regroup again further away. It was the same sequence I'd seen two nights earlier in Cairns, when a pair of sunburnt Brits had tested their cockney charm on a tour group of Japanese girls - all beautiful, their clothes, makeup and demeanour seemingly identical. When the Brits approached, the tour group split in two, flowed round the amorous cockneys and re-formed again a little further away.

Surely I was on to something. If confirmed, my theory would be the kind of breakthrough that could land me on the cover of Science. Alas, that very evening my original hypothesis met up, in the words of Darwin's friend and colleague Thomas Huxley, with a "single ugly fact." A 400-some-kilo fact, with bulbous eyes, a protruding lower jaw and nostril cavities you could hide your fist in. Epinepheleus tuka, the potato cod, is about as attractive as a schoolyard geek on steroids.

The dive master had repeatedly lectured us not to blind the wildlife with our flashlights. But when I saw a shadow beneath me brought my beam up and fixed that giant cod right between the eyes. Seconds later it slammed headfirst into a coral wall.

My eco-guilt was made worse when the cod pulled back and it looked like its tail was coming out its mouth. But no, the tail belonged to a parrot fish. It had probably been asleep in the coral when the cod dived in. Half-devoured, it managed a last little tail wiggle, then the cod gulped, and the parrot fish was gone, swallowed up along with my theory. of course, no one in laidback, tropical Calms would roust you out of bed only to swallow you whole. My future in science was fading fast.

Fortunately, there was an accredited scientist accompanying the 17 passengers and seven crew on board the Undersea Explorer. Indeed, the five-year-old company was set up to bring divers and researchers together. Scientists on the Undersea Explorer share their knowledge with the tourists in return for free use of the boat as a research platform. On shark-research trips, passengers get to help out with shark tagging. When the whale scientists come aboard, the Explorer heads north to seek out minkes. During the spring, the boat travels to the unexplored northern section of the reef in search of whale sharks and manta rays. Springtime trips are also a chance to witness the world's largest orgy as the hundreds of millions of coral animals that make up the more than 2,000-kilometre-long Great Barrier Reef all pawn on a single moonless night in mid-November
Dr. Pat Hutchings' passion is boring worms. Literally. She studies he hundreds of species of marine worms that bore or scrape out homes in both the top layer of living coral and in the lower layers of dead coral (the substrate) that serve as the reef's foundation. A researcher at the Australian Museum in Sydney, Dr. Hutchings also as a soft spot for parrot fish, the coral grazers that scrape and munch off bits of living coral with their powerful beak-like teeth. On a healthy reef, all this boring and scraping and munching - bioerosion in scientific parlance - is balanced by living coral colonies hat lay down new layers of reef substrate as they grow. Unfortunately, healthy reefs are becoming less and less common.


About 10 percent of the world's reefs have been destroyed; another 30 percent are threatened. In industrialized countries the major culprits include housing developments and the toxic runoff from agriculture. South Florida's reefs may have less than a decade to live, thanks to wall-to-wall beachfront condos and intensive sugar production. Things are less dire Down Under, but reef health .s still a major concern.

Dr. Hutchings' contribution to preservation efforts is an investigation into bio-erosion rates off the north Queensland coast. Three years ago, she sailed out on the Explorer and bolted small bricks of coral substrate onto the reef at various sites, including Osprey Reef in the middle of the Coral Sea, 200 kilometres from the mainland. Over time, the munching and boring erode the blocks, while live corals recolonize them and lay down new layers of reef material. Once the coral blocks are taken back to the lab and weighed, the net change in block mass gives a concrete measure of the rate of bio-erosion.

Its an important, long-term method for measuring reef health. But here at Osprey Reef, I'm in the mood for something more stimulating than coral blocks and boring worms. So while Hutchings swims off with a collecting bag clutched in her hands, I set out to do a bit of exploring.

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